Today Your Style, Tomorrow The World: punk, fashion and visual imaginary
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x12232019073Keywords:
fashion, visual culture, (post)punk subcultureAbstract
In this article we will analyze the punk movement as an innovator in fashion and contemporary visual imagery. The interpenetrations between these worlds will be approached through the trajectories of Vivienne Westwood, Malcolm McLaren and Jamie Reid. To explain these crosses, we will take a three-level approach: first, we analyze the emergence of punk in England in the mid-1970s, as well as the socio-economic context that allowed this emergence; then we will search the connection between fashion and punk, how it has been and influenced each other; finally, we will study the lasting impact of this fashion / punk link through the focus on graphic design. The perspective is to perceive the creation and perpetuation of a visual imaginary of punk up to the present considering its legacy and probably even its memory.
Downloads
References
ADORNO, Theodor W. Sobre a indústria da cultura. Coimbra: Angelus Novus, 2003.
ALBIEZ, Sean. Print the truth, not the legend. The Sex Pistols: Lesser Free Trade Hall, Manchester, June 4, 1976. In INGLIS, Ian (ed.). Performance and popular music: history, place and time. Hampshire: Ashgate Publishing, p. 92-106, 2006.
AZERRAD, Michael. Our band could be your life: scenes from the American Indie Underground 1981-1991. Boston: Little, Brown and Company, 2002.
BARRETO, Jorge Lima. Rock & droga (R./Trip2). Lisboa: & etc, 1982.
BASTOS, Cristiano. Destruição: o punk edificado em Guy Debord. Os Arménios, 2008. Disponível em: http://www.osarmenios.com.br/2008/03/destruicao-o-punk-edificado-em-guy-debord/.
BENJAMIN, Walter. Sobre a arte: técnica, linguagem e política. Lisboa: Relógio d’Água Editores, 1992.
BOURDIEU, Pierre. A distinção: critica social do julgamento. São Paulo: Editora Zouk, 2007.
BOURDIEU, Pierre. As regras da arte. Lisboa: Editorial Presença, 1996.
CARTLEDGE, Frank. Distress to Impress?: Local Punk Fashion and Commodity Exchange. In SABIN, Roger (org.). Punk Rock. So What?: The cultural legacy of punk. Londres: Routledge, p. 143-154, 1999
CHAMBERS, Ian. Urban Rhythms: Pop Music and Popular Culture. Nova Iorque: Macmillan, 1985.
CHOI, Kyung Hee. Vivienne Westwood in Context and Englishness in Her Work. IJCC, Vol. 8, No. 2, p. 61-70, 2005.
COLEGRAVE, Stephen; SULLIVAN, Chris. Punk. Hors limites. Paris: Éditions du Seuil, 2002.
DÉPARTEMENT MUSIQUE. Le Punk 30 ans et toujours sur la crête. Points d'Actu!, 2006. Disponível em: http://www.pointsdactu.org/article.php3?id_article=636.
DUNN, Kevin. “If It Ain't Cheap, It Ain't Punk”: Walter Benjamin's Progressive Cultural Production and DIY Punk Record Labels. Journal of Popular Music Studies, V. 24, n. 2, p. 217-237, 2012.
EGAN, Sean. The Clash: The Only Band That Mattered. Maryland: Rowman & Littlefield, 2014.
EYERMAN, Ron. Music and Social Movements. In RITZER, George (ed.). Blackwell Encyclopedia of Sociology. Nova Iorque: Blackwell Publishing, 2007
FRITH, Simon; HORNE; Howard. Art into pop. Londres: Taylor & Francis, 1987.
GARNETT, Robert. Too Low to Be Low: Art Pop and the Sex Pistols. In SABIN, Roger (org.). Punk Rock. So What?: The cultural legacy of punk. Londres: Routledge, p. 17-30, 1999.
GRUEN, Bob. Rock Seen. Nova Iorque: Harry N. Abrams, 2011.
GUERRA, Paula. A instável leveza do rock. Génese, dinâmica e consolidação do rock alternativo em Portugal (1980-2010). Porto: Edições Afrontamento, 2013.
GUERRA, Paula; BENNETT, Andy. Never Mind the Pistols? The Legacy and Authenticity of the Sex Pistols in Portugal. Popular Music and Society, V. 38, n. 4, p. 500-521, 2015.
GUERRA, Paula. ‘Just Can’t Go to Sleep’. DIY cultures and alternative economies facing social theory. Portuguese Journal of Social Sciences, Volume 16, Number 3, p. 283-303, 2017.
GUERRA, Paula. Raw Power: Punk, DIY and Underground Cultures as Spaces of Resistance in Contemporary Portugal. Cultural Sociology, https://doi.org/10.1177/1749975518770353, 2018.
HEBDIGE, Dick. Subculture: the meaning of style. Londres: Methuen, 1979.
HEBDIGE, Dick. Posing…Threats, striking…Poses. Youth, surveillance, and display. In GELDER, Ken & THORNTON, Sarah (orgs.). The subculture Reader. Londres, Routledge, p. 393-405, 1997.
HENRIQUES, Júlio. Prefácio. In VV. AA. Internacional Situacionista. Antologia. Lisboa: Antígona, 1997.
HESMONDHALGH, David. Post-punk's attempt to democratise the music industry: the success and failure of rough trade. Popular Music, v. 16, n. 3, p. 255–274, 1997.
INGLIS, Ian (ed.). Performance and popular music: history, place and time. Hampshire: Ashgate Publishing, 2006.
KENT, Nick. The dark stuff. L’envers du rock. Paris: Naïve, 2006.
KOGAN, Frank. Real Punks Don't Wear Black. Athens, Georgia: University of Georgia Press, 2006.
LAWLEY, Guy. 1999. ‘I Like Hate and I Hate Everything Else’: The Influence of Punk on Comics. In SABIN, Roger (org.). Punk Rock. So What?: The cultural legacy of punk. Londres: Routledge, p.100-119, 1999.
LYDON, John. Filthy Lucre Press Conference, 1996. Disponível em: http://www.sexpistolsofficial.com. Acesso em: 29 maio 2018.
LYDON, John. Pistols at The Palace, 2002. Disponível em: http://www.sexpistolsofficial.com. Acesso em: 29 maio 2018.
MARCUS, Greil. A Última transmissão. São Paulo: Conrad Editora, 2006.
MARCUS, Greil. Marcas de baton. Uma História Secreta do Século Vinte. Lisboa: Frenesi, 2000.
MCNEIL, Legs; MCCAIN, Gillian. Please Kill Me. L’histoire non censure du punk racontée par ses acteurs. Paris: Éditions Allia, 2006.
OSGERBY, William. The Filth and the Fury: The Development and Impact of British Punk Rock. Groniek: Historisch Tijdschrift, n. 179, p. 173-87, 2008.
PARAIRE, Philipp. 50 Anos de música rock. Lisboa: Pergaminho, 1992.
REYNOLDS, Simon. Bring the noise: 20 years of writing about hip rock and hip hop. Londres: Faber and Faber Limited, 2007.
REYNOLDS, Simon. Rip it up and start again: post punk 1978-1984. Londres: Faber and Faber, 2006.
RIVETT, Miriam. Misfit Lit: 'Punk Writing' and Representations of Punk Through Writing and Publishing. In SABIN, Roger (org.). Punk Rock. So What?: the cultural legacy of punk. Londres: Routledge, p. 31-48, 1999.
SAMS, Gideon. The Punk. Londres: Corgi Books, 1977.
SAVAGE, Jon. England’s Dreaming: Les Sex Pistols et le punk rock. Londres: Faber and Faber, 2001.
SILVA, Augusto Santos; GUERRA, Paula. As palavras do punk. Lisboa: Alêtheia, 2015.
SIMMEL, Georg. El individuo y la libertad. Ensayos de critica de la cultura. Barcelona: Editorial Peninsula, 2001.
VV.AA. Internacional situacionista. Antologia. Lisboa: Antígona, 1997.
WESTWOOD, Vivienne & KELLY, Ian. Vivienne Westwood. Londres: Picador, 2016.
Discografia
BUZZCOCKS. Singles Going Steady. Nova Iorque: I.R.S. Records, 1979.
SEX PISTOLS. Anarchy in the U.K. Londres: EMI, 1976.
SEX PISTOLS. God Save the Queen. Londres: Virgin, 1977b.
SEX PISTOLS. Never Mind the Bollocks, Here's the Sex Pistols. Londres: EMI, 1977a.
THE CLASH. London Calling. Londres: CBS, 1979.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2019 Paula Guerra, Henrique Grimaldi Figueredo
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
When submitting an article for publication in ModaPalavra e-periodico, the author (s) agree (s) with the following terms:
- Authors maintain the copyright in their manuscripts and grant the journal the right of first publication, with work simultaneously licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International, which allows sharing the work with the acknowledgment of authorship and the initial publication in the journal without payment ;
- Authors may use the same results in other publications after the first publication, provided that they indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium;
- Authors are authorized to take additional contracts, separately, only after the original publication in ModaPalavra e-journal, provided they indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium;
- Authors are allowed and encouraged to publish and distribute their work online (eg in institutional repositories or on their personal page), only after the editorial process and the first publication, provided they indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium;
- To indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium, authors should use the following text template: "This article was originally published by ModaPalavra e-periodical, under a CC BY NC license, in its volume [insert volume] number [insert number] in the year of [insert year], and can be accessed at: http://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/modapalavra/ ";
- The opinions expressed in the articles are the author’s sole responsibility, not necessarily reflecting the journal’s opinion. The publication of any material that is owned and held in copyright by a third party, including – but not limited to - articles, photos or drawings was previously authorized by their representatives to be published in ModaPalavra e-journal.
