Capability based-approach: re-Invent people and materials viable relationships

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x15352022017

Keywords:

new economy, materials relationships, surplus waste

Abstract

Sustainability as an approach to the contemporary textile and fashion design; not only linked to the environmental vision but concerning the economy, respect for people’s work and production. “A new dominant social paradigm (DSP) would focus on creating apparel products that are more efficient in material use, production and consumer utility, as well as better meeting the human needs of the consumer base, inherently more social than material needs. Similarly, clothing education in the dominant new social paradigm would promote the development of skills that would most likely include understanding human needs and ecosystem limitations, working collaboratively with the market rather than trying to dominate it and an understanding of local culture and tradition “ (LeHew, 2011).

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

Author Biographies

Maria Antonietta Sbordone, University of Campania "Luigi Vanvitelli"

Associate Professor at the University of Campania Luigi Vanvitelli, she deals with Design and Design for Fashion and Textiles. Since the 1990s she has been carrying out critical-theoretical, research and teaching activities. From 2001 to 2006 she held positions as Designated Member of the "European and Foreign Commission" of the National Council of Architects, Planners, Landscape Architects and Conservationists and for the Architects Council of Europe/Conseil Européen des Architects (ACE-CAE) and at the Council of Europe for the "Landscape Convention", (Conseil d'Europe, Strasbourg). The dissemination of results thanks to an intense activity of workshops, talks and thematic focus teams has favored collaboration with research and training institutions supranational, among which there are: Center Scientifique et Technique de la Construction (CSTC); Architects Council of Europe / Conseil Européen des Architects (ACE-CAE); ECCREDI - European Construction Research Network (E-CORE); Conseil de l’Europe - Direction de la Culture et du Patrimoine Culturel et Naturel, Division de l'aménagement du Territoire et du paysage, Strasbourg, France; Valencia Summit, America's Cup, Valencia, Spain. Since 2014 she has participated in: LENS Italia; National Design Commission for the Person, ADI Milan; responsible for the Design and Fashion sectors of the CUAM University Foundation; International Dimension Commission, Italian Design Society (SID). She collaborates with the International Textile Research Group of the Universidad de São Paulo (USP).

Membership of Academia.edu Share: http://unina2.academia.edu/mariaantoniettasbordone

Regina Aparecida Sanches, Universidade de São Paulo

Possui graduação em Engenharia Mecânica - Ênfase Têxtil pelo Centro Universitário da FEI (1987), mestrado em Engenharia Mecânica pela Universidade Estadual de Campinas (2001), doutorado em Engenharia Mecânica pela Universidade Estadual de Campinas (2006) e livre docência pela Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades da Universidade de São Paulo (2011). Foi Coordenadora do Curso de Engenharia Têxtil do Centro Universitário da FEI (2001 a 2006), Coordenadora do Bacharelado em Têxtil e Moda da Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades da Universidade de São Paulo (2010 a 2012) e Coordenadora do Programa de Pós-Graduação (Mestrado) em Têxtil e Moda da Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades da Universidade de São Paulo (2012 a 2016). É professora visitante da Universidade de Lisboa (Portugal), do Instituto Politécnico de Castelo Branco (Portugal) e da Università degli Studi della Campania Luigi Vanvitelli (Itália). É pesquisadora da Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades (USP), do Centro de Investigação em Arquitetura, Urbanismo e Design (CIAUD) da Universidade de Lisboa (Portugal) e do Fashion Research Lab (FA.RE Lab) da Università degli Studi della Campania Luigi Vanvitelli. Tem experiência nas áreas de Engenharia Têxtil, Mecânica e de Produção. 

Alessandra De Luca, University of Campania "Luigi Vanvitelli"

Doutoranda/PhD Student.

Carmela Ilenia Amato, University of Campania "Luigi Vanvitelli"

Doutoranda/PhD Student.

References

ALESSANDRINI, G. La pedagogia del lavoro. Questioni emergenti e dimensioni di sviluppo per la ricerca e la formazione. Education Sciences & Society, 3(2), p. 55-72. 2012.

ARMSTRONG, C. M.; LEHEW, M. L. A. Sustainable Apparel Product Development: In search of a New Dominant Social Paradigm for the Field Using Sustainable Approaches. Fashion Practice, v. 3, p. 29–62. 2011.

AVILA, A. P. S. et al. Os Resíduos Têxteis Sólidos no Contexto de Abordagens Sustentáveis: Ciclo de Vida, Economia Circular e Upcycling. MIX Sustentável, [S.l.], v. 4, n. 3, p.17-24, out-mar. 2018. Disponível em: http://www.nexos.ufsc.br/index.php/mixsusten-tavel. Acesso em: 25 maio 2021.

BALIAMOUNE-LUTZ, M. On the measurement of human well-being: fuzzy set theory and Sen’s capability approach. Wider UN, Research paper n. 2004/16. 2004.

BIRBES, C. Progettazione pedagogica e ambiente. In cammino verso l’ambiente. In C. Birbes (Ed.), Progettare l’educazione per lo sviluppo sostenibile. Idee, percorsi, azioni. Milano: EDUCatt. 2011.

BONOMI, A.; RULLANI E. Il capitalismo personale. Vite al lavoro. Torino: Einaudi. 2005.

CIA DIFFUSIONE. L’industria del tessile abbigliamento. 2009. Disponível em: https://www.ciadiffusione.it/gesFiles/Filez/

K100643.pdf. 2014. Acesso em: 15 maio 2021.

CREPALDI, V. Programmazione e controllo nella Reverse Logistics: Corporate Social Responsibility, Corporate Sustainability e indicatori GRI. Università CA’ Foscari Venezia. Disponível em: http://dspace.unive.it/bitstream/handle/1057/ 5757/821276-1180634.pdf?sequence=2. Acesso em: 23 maio 2021.

DUARTE, A. Y. S. et al. Technological innovations in the production of sportwear: from conventional production to Industry 4.0. PRODUCT (IGDP), v. 18, p. 19-25, 2020.

ELLEN MACARTHUR FOUNDATION. A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future. 2017. Disponível em: http://www.

ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications. Acesso em: 12 maio 2021.

FANTIN, V. et al. Sistemi di progettazione, produzione, distribuzione e consumo sostenibili e circolari - Filiera Tessile - Abbigliamento - ModaPosition paper. 2020. Disponível em: https://www.react-project.net/wp-content/uploads/sites/41/2020/05/5-ICESP-Position-paperfiliera-tessile-e-moda.pdf. Acesso em: 10 maio 2021.

FIORANI, E. Moda, corpo, immaginario. Il divenire moda del mondo fra tradizione e innovazione. Milano: Poli.Design, 2006.

FLETCHER, K. Sustainable Fashion and Textiles. 2nd. ed. London: Routledge, 2014.

FLETCHER, K.; GROSE, L. Moda e sustentabilidade: design para mudanças. São Paulo: SENAC, 2011.

GLOBAL FASHION AGENDA. Pulse of the Fashion Industry Report. 2018. Disponível em: https://www2.globalfashionagenda.com/publications/#pulseofthefashionindustry. Acesso em: 30 abr. 2021.

LATTE, P. R. Logistica inversa: nuova area di logistica aziendale. Disponível em: http: meusite.mackenzie.br/leitepr/log%cdstica%20reversa%20-20nova%20%c1rea%20da%20log% cdstica%20empresarial.pdf. Acesso em: 25 maio 2021.

LEITE, P. R. Logística Reversa: Meio Ambiente e Competitividade. São Paulo: Pearson, 2009.

LEITÃO, A. Economia circular: Uma nova filosofia de Gestão Para o séc. XXI. Jornal Português de Finanças, Gestão e Contabilidade. v. 1, n. 2, 2015.

MALAVASI, P. Pedagogia e formazione delle risorse umane. Milano: Vita e Pensiero. 2007.

MORSELETTO, P. Targets for a circular economy. Resources, Conservation and Recycling. v. 153, 2020.

MURRAY, R.; CAULIER, G. J.; MULGAN, G. Il libro bianco sull’innovazione sociale. Edizione italiana a cura di Giordano, A.,

Arvidsson, A. Londra: The Youg Foundation. 2012.

PEARCE, D. W.; TURNER, R. K. Economics of natural resources and environment. Londres: Harvester Wheashealf, 1990.

ROBEYNS, I. The capability approach: A theoretical survey. Journal of Human Development. v. 6, 93-114. 2005.

ROMANIA JOURNAL. The first dedicated digital platform for circular economy. 2020. Disponível em: https://www.romaniajournal.ro/business/the-first-dedicated-digital-platform-for-circular-economy/. Acesso em: 15 maio 2021.

ROY CHOUDHURY, A. K. Environmental Impacts of the Textile Industry and Its Assessment Through Life Cycle Assessment. In: MUTHU, S. S. (Ed.). Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing: Environmental and Social Aspects of Textiles and Clothing Supply Chain. Singapore: Springer, p. 1–39. 2014.

RULLANI, E.; PLECHERO, M. Innovare. Reinventare il Made in Italy. Roma: Egea. 2007.

SANCHES, R. A. Estudo comparativo das características das malhas produzidas com fibras sustentáveis para fabricação

de vestuário. São Paulo, Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades, Universidade São Paulo. Tese de Livre-docência. 2011.

SANCHES, R. A.; et al. Tecnologia da malharia: processos e principais produtos. Modapalavra e-periódico, v. 14, p. 51-72, 2021.

SANTANA, M. R. La logistica inversa e tua importanza organizzativa e sostenibilità ambientale. Rivista scientifica multidisciplinare di nucleo di conoscenza. anno 03, Ed. 06, vol. 04, pp. 36-51, 2018.

SEN, A. Well-being, agency and freedom: the Dewey lectures 1984. Journal of Philosophy, 82 (April 1985); and “Capability and wellbeing”. WIDER conference paper. 1984.

SEN, A. Development as Capability Expansion. In: Fukuda-Parr S., et al. Readings in Human Development. New Delhi and New York: Oxford University Press. 2003.

WRAP. Evaluating the financial viability and resource implications for new business models in the clothing sector. https://wrap.org.uk/resources/report/financial-viability-innovative-business-modelsclothing#. p.2. 2013.

Published

2022-01-02

How to Cite

SBORDONE, Maria Antonietta; SANCHES, Regina Aparecida; DE LUCA, Alessandra; AMATO, Carmela Ilenia. Capability based-approach: re-Invent people and materials viable relationships. ModaPalavra e-periódico, Florianópolis, v. 15, n. 35, p. 17–69, 2022. DOI: 10.5965/1982615x15352022017. Disponível em: https://revistas.udesc.br/index.php/modapalavra/article/view/20861. Acesso em: 20 dec. 2024.

Most read articles by the same author(s)