Fashion designers’ autobiographies as tool for historical research
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x08162015005Keywords:
fashion designer, autobiography, authorship, self-expression, fashion historyAbstract
Fashion designers represent a constitutive part of modern western fashion and are among the most intriguing and controversial of its figures. Fashion is a system centered on design, but tends to exclude the designer from theoretical and historical discourse. In other fields of cultural production, artists and architects have provided a key focus –by means of their writings –on major themes in their fields, thus contributing to developing them into historiography and literature. In the case of fashion, on the contrary, the textual material that fashion designers produce is considered as promotional to the designers themselves, their collections, and their brand. This interpretation is accepted by the fashion industry as well as by fashion studies, which acknowledge the severely limited contribution that designers themselves make to historiography and criticism. The paper intends discuss the historical and current role of designer-based explanations in the field of fashion. Taking into consideration fashion designers’ writings from 20th and 21th centuries, the paper explores fashion designers’ autobiographical accounts of their entry into the world of fashion, with particular attention paid to education and apprenticeship. It also provides insight into the difficulties that designers experience in managing their public image.
Downloads
References
ARMANI, Giorgio.I cretini non sono mai eleganti: Giorgio Armani in parole sue. Milano: Rizzoli Etas,2014.
AYTON,Sylvia.“A Love-HateRelationshipwithCouture”,Costume,39,May, pp. 117-27.2005.
BALMAIN, Pierre.Des rapports de l’architecture avec la couture. Paris:Serin, 1950.
BARRIE, Jean-Claude. “Préface”, in Ara Frenkian, Un artisan de la haute couture, Libourne: MiraImpression, pp. 3-4.1988.
BARTHES, Roland. Mythologies. London: Paladin, 1973.
BOCCA, Nicoletta (ed.).Moda: poesia e progetto. Percorsi della creatività, Milano: Domus Academy,1990.
BREWARD, Christopher. “Couture as Queer Auto/Biography”, in Valerie Steele (ed.), A Queer History of Fashion From the Closet to the Catwalk. New Haven:Yale University Press, pp. 117-33. 2013.
CHARLES-ROUX, Edmonde.L’irrégulière. Paris:Jules Tallandier-Le cercle du nouveau livre, 1974.
CLARK,Judith; FRISA, MariaLuisa. DianaVreelandafterDianaVreeland.Venezia: Marsilio,2012.
CRANE, Diana.“Fashion design and social change: Women designers and stylistic innovation”, Journal of American Culture.XXII,1,Spring 1999,pp. 61-9.1999.
DE MAN, Paul.“Autobiography as De-facement”, MLN, XCIV, 5 December, pp. 913-30.MLN is currently published by The Johns Hopkins University Press,1979.
DE MARLY,Diana.Worth: Father of Haute Couture. London:Elm Tree Books, 1980.
______, , The History of Haute Couture, 1850-1950. London: Batsford,1980.
DEL BON,Flavia; AERNI,Michael; “Alleswiederoffen”,DoingFashionPaper,I,1 2012, pp. 162-7.2012.
DIOR, Christian.Christian Dior et moi, Paris:Dumont, 1956.
______, ChristianDiorandI,NewYork:Dutton,1957.
DIOR, Christian, CHAVANE, Alice, RABOURDIN, Élie. Je suis couturier. Christian Dior: propos recueillis par Alice Chavane et Élie Rabourdin. Paris: Éditions du Conquistador,1951.
BOTTERO, Amelia,C A LA B R I , Vittoria, FERRI, Edgarda.Gotha della moda italiana. Milano: Il pungolo, pp. 158-9.1992.
EVANS,Caroline,“Masks,MirrorsandMannequins:ElsaSchiaparelliandtheDecenteredSubject”,FashionTheory,III,1February,pp. 3-31.1999.
FERRÉ,Gianfranco,A ungiovanestilista.Milano: Pratiche,1996.
______,“Creatività e metodo di lavoro”, in Id., Lezioni di moda. Venezia.2009.
FOUCAULT, Michel,“Qu’est-ce qu’un auteur?”, Bulletin de la Société Française de Philosophie, LXIII, n. 3, pp. 73-104. 1969.
FRENKIAN,Ara, Unartisandelahautecouture:Ara,Libourne,MiraImpression, 1988.
GARLAND, Madge, Fashion. London:Penguin, 1962.
GAULTIER, Jean Paul.“Le chevauchée fantastique”, Numéro, n. 52, April, pp. 236-40.2006.
______, “Jean Paul Gaultier, fashion designer”. Disponível em: <http://www.carlabrunisarkozy.org/en/jean-paul-gaultier-fashion-designer-2/> last accessed: 22 June 2011.2011.
HOBSBAWM, Eric. InterestingTimes: ATwentieth-Century Life. New York: Pantheon Books,2002.
HOLLANDER, Anne.Seeing Through Clothes. New York: The Viking Press, 1978.
KRAUSS, Rosalind E.The Originality of the Avant-Garde and Other Modernist Myths, Cambridge: Mass.-London, MIT Press, 1985.
LACROIX, Christian, , Fashion in Motion: Christian Lacroix, Victoria & Albert Museum,London. Disponível em:<http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/f/fashion-in-motion-christian-lacroix/>. 2006.
LEJEUNE, Philippe.“The Autobiography of Those Who DoNot Write”, in Id, On Autobiography, Theory and History of Literature, LII. Minneapolis:University of Minnesota Press,1988.
______, 1996 [1975], Le pacte autobiographique, Paris: Seuil, 2010McQueen, Alexander. Disponível em:<http://twitter.com/Mcqueenworld.> last accessed: 11 February 2010.
MERLEAU-PONTY, Maurice.“Cezanne’s Doubt”, in Id., Sense and Non-Sense, translatedby Hubert and Patricia Dreyfus. Evanston: Northwestern University Press, pp. 9-25.1964 [1948].
MOSCHINO, Franco.“Il Sogno di Franco Moschino”, Vanity Fair, Italian edition, November, pp. 250-3.1990.
NEPPI, Enzo.“L’autobiografia come spia”, Levia Gravia, XII: Studi sull’autobiografia, pp. 145-52.2010.
PARKINS, Ilya. “Early Twentieth-Century Fashion Designer Life Writing”, Comparative Literature and Culture, XIII, 1, http://docs.lib.purdue.edu/clcweb/vol13/iss1/7 [last accessed 30 March 2014].2011.
POIRET, Paul, , Popolôrepô. Morceaux choisis par un imbécile & illustrés par un autre. Paris: Jonquières.1927.
______,107 recettes ou curiosités culinaires recueillies par Paul Poiret, président honoraire du club des“PursCent”, suivies de quelques pages de publicité gratuite, par Sébastien Voirol. Paris: Jonquières,1928;.
______,En habillant l’époque. Paris, Grasset.1930.
______, Art et phynance, Paris, Lutetia.1934______,
King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret. London: V&A Publishing,2009.
QUINTAVALLE, Arturo Carlo.“Moda: le tre culture”, in Gloria Bianchino et al.(eds), La moda italiana. 1. Le origini dell’alta moda e la maglieria, Milano, Electa, pp. 11-56.1987.
SAINT LAURENT,Yves et al.Yves Saint Laurent. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art and Clarkson N. Potter. 1983.
SCHIAPARELLI, Elsa. Shocking Life. London: Dent.1954.
SCOTT MILLER,Ruth.“Foreword”,inJean-Philippe Worth,A CenturyofFashion,Boston,Little,BrownandCompany, pp. v-vii.1928.
STEELE, Valerie.“A Museum of Fashion is More Than a Clothes-Bag”, Fashion Theory, II, 4, December, pp. 327-36.1998.
VACCARI, Alessandra. La moda nei discorsi dei designer.Bologna: Clueb.2012.
______,Writing on Fashion: The designer view, in Verbeke, Johan, Pak, Burak (eds.), Knowing (by) Designing Conference, Ghent/Brussels, Luca; Leuven, Ku.2013.
BERG, NandaVan Den.“Designer Alexander van Slobbe Talks to Nanda van den Berg”, Fashion Practice, III, 2, 2011, pp. 265-84. 2011.
SLOBBE, AlexanderVan;etal.AlexandervanSlobbe:And...And...And...,Amsterdam: Veliz,2010.
GORDON, LucyWallace Duff, Discretions & Indiscretions. London: Jarrolds,1932
WILSON, Elizabeth.[1985], Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, London, I.B. Tauris. 2003.
WORTHJean-Philippe.ACenturyofFashion. Boston:Little,BrownandCompany, 1928.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2015 Alessandra Vaccari
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
When submitting an article for publication in ModaPalavra e-periodico, the author (s) agree (s) with the following terms:
- Authors maintain the copyright in their manuscripts and grant the journal the right of first publication, with work simultaneously licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International, which allows sharing the work with the acknowledgment of authorship and the initial publication in the journal without payment ;
- Authors may use the same results in other publications after the first publication, provided that they indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium;
- Authors are authorized to take additional contracts, separately, only after the original publication in ModaPalavra e-journal, provided they indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium;
- Authors are allowed and encouraged to publish and distribute their work online (eg in institutional repositories or on their personal page), only after the editorial process and the first publication, provided they indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium;
- To indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium, authors should use the following text template: "This article was originally published by ModaPalavra e-periodical, under a CC BY NC license, in its volume [insert volume] number [insert number] in the year of [insert year], and can be accessed at: http://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/modapalavra/ ";
- The opinions expressed in the articles are the author’s sole responsibility, not necessarily reflecting the journal’s opinion. The publication of any material that is owned and held in copyright by a third party, including – but not limited to - articles, photos or drawings was previously authorized by their representatives to be published in ModaPalavra e-journal.