Study and analysis of Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking

Abstract

In the development of knitted garments patternmaking, not only the degree of elasticity of the knit should be considered, but also the desired fit, the composition and the weight of the knit. However, there is a lack of more objective approaches on all aspects that involve knitwear patternmaking. Therefore, the objective of this article is to analyze the Julie Cole’s method for knitted garments patternmaking, through the making of long-sleeved blouses. For this, the top slopers and sleeve draftings were studied. according to three fitting variations: fitted, semi-fitted and loose-fit. Six knit types were selected, with the stretch factor by the manual method. Thus, with the percentages of elasticity defined, each knit was classified according to Cole's (2016) approach and nomenclature. For the slopers choice, according to the desired fit, the author in question only describes the fit for super stretchy knits. Thus, it was necessary to apply the same reasoning to the other knit types and, then, slopers with more ease were created, so that the arrangement between the fit and the kint stretch categories were proportional. In addition, the aim was to identify parameters that would allow for a careful evaluation of the pieces made using Cole's (2016) method. As a result, eighteen long-sleeved blouses were made. During the prototypes analysis, it was observed the blouses developed according to Cole's approach have an adequate fit quality and the patternmaking with the geometry corresponding to the contours of the body.