Licenciamento de moda de luxo nas economias transatlânticas e coloniais: além de Paris e Nova York

Autores

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.5965/25944630822024e5189

Palavras-chave:

marca registrada, luxo, transatlântico, marcas, comércio

Resumo

Durante a era do pós-guerra, as empresas de moda de luxo entraram em uma nova fase de seu crescimento internacional com a concessão de licenças de suas marcas. A casa de alta costura francesa Dior foi pioneira em licenças e estabeleceu filiais em uma série de países ao redor do mundo. Inspiradas nos sucessos transatlânticos de empresas como Jean Dessès, Christian Dior e Norman Hartnell, as empresas de luxo francesas registraram suas marcas internacionalmente e replicaram o registro de marcas em inúmeros países. Este trabalho examina ainda mais o alcance das marcas de moda e beleza de luxo nas colônias da França e da Bélgica. Isso mostra que as empresas de moda expandiram sua expertise transatlântica e que isso criou novo retorno aos circuitos transatlânticos.

Downloads

Não há dados estatísticos.

Biografia do Autor

Veronique Pouillard, University of Oslo

Véronique Pouillard é professora de História Internacional, Universidade de Oslo, Noruega, Departamento de Arqueologia, Conservação e História. Ela lidera o ERC CoG Project Creative IPR, Grant 818523.                  

Referências

AKOU, Heather Marie, et al. Contemporary African Fashion. Bloomington, Indiana University Press, 2010.

ANTIPPAS, Georges. Les descendants des pionniers hellènes du Congo, volume 1. Neufchâteau: Weyrich Editions, 2021.

BARBOSA, Everton Vieira. Páginas de sociabilidade feminina: sensibilidade musical no Rio de Janeiro oitocentista. 2016. PhD diss., Dissertação (Mestrado em História) – Universidade do Estado de São Paulo (UNESP), Assis, 2016.

BARRETT, Paul M., BAUMANN-PAULY, Dorothée. Made in Ethiopia: Challenges in the garment industry’s new frontier. Center for Business and Human Rights, NYU-Stern, May 2019.

BIRNHACK, Michael D. Colonial Trademark: Law and Nationality in Mandate Palestine, 1922-48. Law & Social Inquiry 46, 1, 2021, pp. 192-225.

BLASZCZYK, Regina Lee; POUILLARD, Véronique, Eds. European fashion. The Creation of a Global Industry. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2018.

CATTANI, Gino, COLUCCI, Mariachiara; FERRIANI, Simone. From the Margins to the Core of Haute Couture: The Entrepreneurial Journey of Coco Chanel. Enterprise & Society 24, no. 2, 2023, pp. 546-588.

CHAPDELAINE, Sophie. Prisunic, la mode et le design: une entreprise face au style, 1945- 1972. PhD Thesis in History, Paris: Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales, 2023.

DA SILVA LOPES, Teresa; DUGUID, Paul, Eds. Trademarks, brands, and competitiveness. Abingdon: Routledge, 2010.

DONZÉ, Pierre-Yves. Selling Europe to the World: The Rise of the Luxury Fashion Industry, 1980-2020. Bloomsbury Publishing, 2023.

DONZÉ, Pierre-Yves; WUBS, Ben. Storytelling and the making of a global luxury fashion brand: Christian Dior. International Journal of Fashion Studies 6, no. 1, 2019, pp. 83-102.

DUBÉ-SENÉCAL, Vincent. Fashion’s diplomatic role: an instrument of French prestige-based commercial diplomacy, 1960s–1970s. International Relations, 2022: 00471178221123506.

Dubé-Senécal, Vincent. Fashion, industry and diplomacy: reframing couture–textile relations in France, 1950s–1960s. Enterprise & Society 24, no. 2, 2023, pp. 455-479.

FUJIOKA, Rika. The pressures of globalization in retail: The path of Japanese department stores, 1930s–1980s. In: UMEMURA, Maki; FUJIOKA, Rika (Eds.). Comparative responses to globalization: Experiences of British and Japanese Enterprises, London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2013, pp. 181-203.

FUJIOKA, Rika; LI, Zhen; KANEKO, Yuta. The democratisation of luxury and the expansion of the Japanese market, 1960–2010. In: Donzé, Pierre-Yves; FUJIOKA, Rika (Eds). Global Luxury: Organizational Change and Emerging Markets since the 1970s. Singapore: Springer, 2018, pp. 133-156.

GONDOLA, Ch. Didier. Tropical Cowboys: westerns, violence, and masculinity in Kinshasa. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2016.

JONES, Geoffrey. Beauty imagined: A history of the global beauty industry. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2010.

KAWAMURA, Yuniya. The Japanese revolution in Paris fashion. Fashion Theory. The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, vol. 8, n. 2, 2004: pp. 195-223.

KULDOVA, Tereza. Luxury Indian fashion: A social critique. London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2016.

KULDOVA, Tereza. The ‘ethical sell’ in the Indian luxury fashion business. In: BLASZCZYK, Regina Lee; POUILLARD, Véronique (Eds). European fashion. The Creation of a Global Industry. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2018: pp. 263-282.

MERRIAM, Alan P. Congo: Background of conflict. Evanston, Illinois: Northwestern University Press, 1961.

NOWINSKI, Élodie. Yves Saint Laurent et l'exotisme dans les années soixante. In: RUFFAT, Michèle; VEILLON, Dominique (Eds). La mode des Sixties. L’entrée dans la modernité. Paris: Autrement, 2007: pp. 141-154.

NZONGOLA-NTALAJA, Georges. The Congo from Leopold to Kabila: a people’s history. London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2013.

OKAWA, Tomoko. Licensing Practices at Maison Christian Dior. In: BLASZCZYK, Regine Lee (Eds). Producing Fashion. Commerce, Culture, and Consumers. Philadelphia: Pennsylvania University Press, 2008, pp. 82-108.

PALMER, Alexandra. Couture & commerce: the transatlantic fashion trade in the 1950s. Vancouver: University of British Columbia Press, 2001.

PALMER, Alexandra. Dior: a new look, a new enterprise (1947-1957). London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 2009.

POUILLARD, Véronique. La publicité en Belgique, 1850-1975: Des courtiers aux agences internationales. Brussels: Académie Royale de Belgique, Classe des Lettres et des Sciences Morales et Politique, 2005.

POUILLARD, Véronique. Christian Dior-New York: French fashion in the luxury US market. In: DONZÉ, Pierre-Yves; FUJIOKA, Rika (Eds). Global Luxury: Organizational Change and Emerging Markets since the 1970s. Singapore: Springer, 2018: pp. 111-131.

POUILLARD, Véronique. Paris to New York: the transatlantic fashion industry in the twentieth century. Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press, 2021.

POUILLARD, Véronique; DUBÉ-SENÉCAL, Vincent, (Eds). The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present. Abingdon: Routledge, 2023.

QUENEAU, Raymond. Zazie dans le métro. Paris: Gallimard, 1959.

RANESTAD, Kristin. The mining sectors in Chile and Norway from approximately 1870 to 1940: the development of a knowledge gap. PhD diss., University of Geneva, 2015.

RIVOLI, Pietra. The travels of a t-shirt in the global economy: An economist examines the markets, power, and politics of world trade. London: John Wiley & Sons, 2014.

SAILLARD, Olivier et al. (Eds). Fashion Mix. Mode d'ici. Créateurs d'ailleurs. Paris: Flammarion, 2014.

SÁIZ, Patricio; CASTRO, Rafael. Trademarks in branding: Legal issues and commercial practices. Business History, 60, no. 8, 2018: pp. 1105-1126.

SÁIZ, Patricio; CASTRO, Rafael, (Eds). The Brand and Its History: Trademarks, Branding and National Identity. Abingdon: Routledge, 2022.

VELLUT, Jean-Luc. Congo: Ambitions et désenchantements 1880-1960. Paris: Karthala Editions, 2017.

WEEMS, Robert E. Desegregating the dollar: African American consumerism in the twentieth century. New York: New York University Press, 1998.

Publicado

2024-06-01

Como Citar

POUILLARD, Veronique. Licenciamento de moda de luxo nas economias transatlânticas e coloniais: além de Paris e Nova York. Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design, Florianópolis, v. 8, n. 2, p. 1–22, 2024. DOI: 10.5965/25944630822024e5189. Disponível em: https://revistas.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/25189. Acesso em: 22 dez. 2024.